“I don’t think she could do any wrong,” said Vogue’s Fran Burns afterwards. “Her sense of femininity and beauty, and of craftsmanship is mind blowing. Plus it was an army of blondes so a big thumbs up from me.”
It opened with a flurry of winter whites – skater skirts gathered in vast swathes around the thighs below fitted jackets that flowered to wide peplums under huge shawls. Heel-less ankle boots or Mary Janes worn over woolly socks added to the futuristic, always slightly spooky element, before stunning silk and leather dresses featuring embellishments of unfurling petals in baby pink or white allowed the colour to slowly bleed to centre stage.
Everything was belted tight to the waist – white on black doily printed coats with stiff collars and zips up the back, fur coats smothered in pompoms that then expanded to huge ostrich feather skirts and coats - which in turn grew into frothy marabou or tulle jellyfish dresses that seemed to breathe of their own accord.
In bright orange and fuchsia, with matching shoes, they were a pure celebration of colour and form, while one in cream had a bouncing gathered hem at the calf, another at the knee and a final higher one at each cuff that combined at the back as a cape.
They were fountains, or live fashion corals – mesmerising to watch. The Beach Boys’ Good Vibrations took over the speakers and Burton ran out smiling to take a bow, turning back to reveal a pair of orange-handled scissors in her back pocket. Truly a genius of fashion ideas.
Some photos :
In other hand, MIU MIU took the Edwardian silhouette introduced by Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton this
morning - with frock coat shapes over cropped tailored trousers - and
swirled in Seventies colour and print, all piled up over glam rock
platforms in silver and mahogany and topped with glittering rainbow eye
embellishments and hair that was slicked back and curled into looped
sideburns - all accompanied by Björk being Violently Happy. It could really only happen at Miu Miu.
Mannish suits in pale blue, green, mustard or plum came over ruffle-fronted shirts featuring fine mosaic prints that later emerged to take over the suits, in prints of pink and blue, raspberry and turquoise, orange and brown, pink and green or purple and tan - and then in blocks of turquoise and black. A modern psychedelica we can't wait to get our hands on.
Cape-shouldered tailored jackets were teamed with mismatching A-line mini skirts before brown suede coats with pointed collars called to mind the coats we berated our fathers for still owning when we were teenagers.
There were few dresses to speak of, but those that did appear were mini tunics embellished with mirrors in front and tailored in suede behind: young, sassy and brilliant for a place in the limelight.
Some photos :
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