Ciggie notwithstanding, that old Moss Magic did its work. Vuitton
have sold 2000 pairs of those boots to date - at £1,530 a pair.
Can she do the same for lace collars and vanilla tulle? For that's
what she wore on the Vuitton catwalk this time. There was no cigarette
either - just a carousel of 48 horses, one for every model, each of whom
looked adorable, in their sugared almond coloured princess dresses and
twinkly skirt suits.
If you like sweetness and light, this was a heavenly constellation of
prettiness. There would have been more of it, but Vuitton had already
booked the biggest carousel in Paris, so Jacobs had to edit the
collection down to 48 outfits.
A few years ago, no model, not even Moss, would have had the power to
sell 2,000 of anything that Jacobs put on a catwalk. That's because for
all the hullabaloo surrounding Vuitton's ready-to-wear shows, clothes
were but a micro-dot amid all the luggage and wallets that generate
Vuitton's multi-billion Euro annual turnover. Most of what Jacobs
designed never even got produced. That major source of discontentment is
now behind him. "We've really got it together," he says. "Most of what
you see in the show makes it to our key stores".
That should please fans - as much as it distresses their fund
managers. Vuitton's ready-to-wear is up there with the costliest. But
the craftsmanship is extraordinary. Many of the drop yoked skirts and
princess-line dresses in yesterday's show came with top layers of tulle
or a meadow's worth of sparkling appliquéd rosettes.
Don't ask him prices. "I never know. I just make it to the best of our ability. I'm so proud of the teams we've got here. When I arrived at Vuitton 14 years ago there was no ready-to-wear studio. We built it from scratch. I couldn't do any of this without them".
Aha! We were under strict instructions from the Vuitton press officers not to mention Christian Dior to Jacobs. Rumours about him taking over from John Galliano have reached a point of delirium during the past month. Team Vuitton fervently hopes they won't lose their ringmaster. Jacobs refuses to discuss it, although he conceded that his past few shows had become increasingly spectacular - so he'd rise to Dior's tradition of extravaganzas. But if he does transfer (and his boss, Bernard Arnault, who also owns Dior, is said to be keen) he seems to be sending out signals that he'll be doing it on his terms - and possibly keeping his team.
View the Balmain spring collection from Paris Fashion Week.
Models wear designs from the Balmain spring collection
at Paris Fashion Week :
Models wear designs from the Balmain spring collection
at Paris Fashion Week :
All of this dress is so cute. Many peoples like it. :)
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